Margaret Johnson: Irish Cook of the Hamptons

Margaret Johnson, aka the Irish cook, served up A Winter Tea program at John Jermain Memorial Library this past weekend. She is the author of thirteen cookbooks, including Teatime in Ireland, and she will be holding more tea-themed events in the spring.

Margaret has been a resident of the Hamptons since the 80s. The East End has become like a hometown to her despite her background—especially when it comes to cooking—maintaining her Irish roots. She occasionally holds in-person events and programs across Long Island where she teaches about the history of tea and how to present afternoon tea.

She spoke more about her cookbooks, favorite recipes, how her Irish background has influenced her work, and what she loves most about living on the East End. Margaret even shares her recipe for Beef and Guinness stew (see below)!

Can you tell us about your cookbooks and how you got started writing them?

MJ: The cookbooks are all Irish, with the exception of one tea cookbook titled Tea & Crumpets, which focuses more on the ritual of afternoon tea in England, although it does contain several recipes from Irish locations. I started writing Irish cookbooks in the early 1990s as much due to my interest in Ireland (I have 100% Irish heritage) as to my love of cooking. I’m a teacher by profession (high school English and Journalism) and combined by writing and cooking interests in cookbook writing.  

Would you tell us a bit about your Irish background and how it influences your creations? 

MJ: Initially it was the only catalyst! I began to travel to Ireland a few times a year and realized the “gastronomic revolution” of the 1990s was the way to go for me. 

What are your favorite types of recipes to explore? 

MJ: Initially I was interested in traditional Irish food but when I delved into it more, especially in the 90s, I realized that chefs there were using traditional ingredients to create a very modern cuisine.

I’ve written books with all kinds of themes: cooking with Irish spirits, Irish desserts, modern Irish food, seasonal recipes, afternoon tea, Christmas recipes.

Do you have a favorite scone recipe in particular?

MJ: Yes, I have one that I use exclusively that has golden raisins, lemon zest, and ginger chips. I love it because they’re easy to freeze, unbaked, and then pop in the oven on the day I plan to serve them.

Can you talk a bit about what a “cream tea” is and the idea behind it?

MJ: A cream tea is an informal offering, usually just a cup of tea and a scone with clotted cream/jam. An afternoon tea is a very formal affair with dainty food set on a three-tiered stand—sandwiches and savories, scones, elegant sweets.

Do you find inspiration from the Hamptons?

MJ: Not for Irish cooking!

What’s your favorite pastime in the Hamptons?

MJ: I’ve lived here full-time since 1982 and enjoy everything about living here, but treat it like a hometown rather than a vacation destination.

Do you have any fun Irish traditions, whether they be food or tea related, or otherwise?

MJ: I used to always make a traditional Irish meal for St. Patrick’s Day parade day, sometimes corned beef and cabbage, which by the way is totally Irish-American; bacon and cabbage is the traditional version, but now I just bake Irish soda bread for friends and family.

How do you define success?

MJ: If I were on the Food Network like Ina Garten I’d consider myself VERY successful; however, I feel I’m quite successful doing what I do promoting Irish food and serving tea to very appreciative library patrons.

What do you like most about in-person events?

MJ: I guess it brings me back to the classroom, so I like the idea of teaching people about tea history and how to present an afternoon tea.

Signed copies of Margaret’s three latest cookbooks Favorite Flavors of Ireland, Teatime in Ireland, and Festive Flavors of Ireland are available on her website www.irishcook.com. Margaret also writes weekly food/travel articles in the Irish Echo newspaper. Her next events on the East End are at Mattituck-Laurel Library on March 16th and Southold Free Library on April 29th. Check out her recipe for Beef and Guinness stew below!

Beef and Guinness Stew:

Serves 6 to 8

Nothing warms the heart (and the stomach) in winter more than hearty soups and stew. I love Irish Stew, which is made with lamb, but you’ll love this hearty beef stew, too, enriched with Ireland’s favorite drink, Guinness Stout. You can omit the beer and replace it with red wine for a more French effect, substitute more broth for the beer, or save this recipe to serve around St. Patrick’s Day. It’s a great make-ahead meal for a busy family, and the raisins and caraway seeds offer a unique flavor. Feel free to add more or less of the vegetables to suit personal taste. Serve it with boiled new potatoes. –Margaret M. Johnson

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons canola oil

2 tablespoons butter

4 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 pounds boneless chuck beef, cut into 1-inch cubes

4 medium onions, chopped

1 tablespoon tomato paste

4 cups homemade beef stock or canned low-salt beef broth

1 (11.2 oz.) bottle Guinness draught

1 teaspoon caraway seeds

1 tablespoon raisins

Salt

Ground black pepper

5 to 6 large carrots, thickly sliced

4 to 5 large parsnips, thickly sliced

1 medium turnip, cut into 1-inch pieces

2 tablespoons minced fresh flat-leaf parsley, for garnish

Boiled new potatoes, for serving

To make:

1. In a Dutch oven or large saucepan over medium heat, heat oil and butter.
2. Dredge beef in flour. Working in batches, cook for about 5 minutes, or until all the meat is browned. With a slotted spoon, remove meat to a plate.
3. Add onions to pan; cook for 3 minutes, stirring occasionally, until soft but not browned. Stir in tomato paste. Add broth and beer, scraping up browned bits from bottom of pan. Return meat to pan; stir in caraway seeds and raisins. Season with salt and pepper; bring to a boil.
4. Cover, reduce heat, and simmer for 1 hour, stirring occasionally. Uncover; cook for about 20 minutes or until it thickens. Add carrots, parsnips, and turnips. Cover, reduce heat to low; simmer for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.
5. Uncover; cook for 10 to 15 minutes longer or until vegetables are tender.
6. To serve, ladle stew into shallow bowls, sprinkle with parsley. Serve with potatoes.