Photo Courtesy of Zach Hilty/BFA, Copyright BFA
When the Hamptons meet Michelin’s haute cuisine, the result is nothing short of spectacular. On August 24, the Michelin Guide and Genesis House transformed a private Water Mill estate into the culinary event of the season, showcasing a sophisticated blend of culture and cuisine. Guests were treated to an unforgettable evening where every detail, every course, and every moment was meticulously curated, embodying the essence of luxury dining on the East End and creating a microcosm for culture as cuisine in the Hamptons.
Perfectly seasoned, the night was the highlight of my Summer season. Genesis House and the Michelin Guide were serving. Serving chic, serving style, serving sool (more on that later), serving luxury. That is to say: they really ate. Well, we all really ate.
Announced in 2024, the partnership between Genesis and Michelin Guide featured a unique culinary collaboration between Genesis House Restaurant and Semma.
The exclusive menu and dining experience curated by NYC’s Genesis House were unified by a throughline: Culture as Cuisine. This motif was elegantly reiterated throughout the evening, clearly conceptualized, and directly delivered: What you eat and who you eat it with are inexorably linked to community and culture.
Cuisine as culture was reflected holistically throughout the dining experience with an intentional and sincere effort to make every guest feel like a Son-nim, which means ‘honored guest’ in Korean, as explained by Edward Barsamain, Head of Editorial at Michelin Guide. Hospitality, at its heart, is so much more than food – it’s a feeling, a warmth, a welcoming.
Guests were in more than capable hands with Edward and the team at Michelin and Genesis House, who considered every detail, from the guest list to table seating. The evening appeared effortlessly elegant, but anyone in food/service/hospitality knows it was anything but effortless.
At Genesis House being a Son-nim means full-suite service: valet, photographers, staff, location. And that’s all before I ate (more than 3, less than 10) beautiful Yukhoe (wagyu tartare, magkeoli bread, urchin, gamtae, shiso flower), or sat down for the tasting menu from the Genesis House culinary team and Chef Vijay Kumar.
Michelin Guide and Genesis House are scions of luxury because they recognize that luxury is an experience and service more than an item. If you can impress a Hamptons crowd, consider yourself impressive.
As my first Michelin experience and unsure of what to expect, I dressed up and came hungry. Good thing, everyone else did. Sharp and sophisticated, still I was overjoyed that the curated evening was an approachable, delicious, exploration of Culture as Cuisine.
Luckily, when the cuisine is this high-quality and the service this stellar – there is no need to hide behind unapproachable jargon (nobody ever said the word “mouthfeel”) or particularly avant-garde gastronomical styles (sorry, no foam).
Barsamain introduced the meal and the host’s words were the perfect amuse-bouche. Offering a welcome and explanation for what Son-nim means in Korean, and highlighting the evening as “cuisine as culture.” Brevity is beautiful, no more so than when you are waiting to eat.
Afterward, I asked Edward where the inspiration for the evening came from, “Dinners in the Hamptons are always a treat, but more so when it’s done at the highest level. Genesis understands the brilliance of haute gastronomy and how it helps people understand culture through cuisine. Add one of the most fabulous settings, a guest list that’s brimming with wonderful people, and picture-perfect weather and that’s a recipe for a successful dinner party.”
Cuisine is culture because food brings people together-I’m so grateful it brought me to Water Mill on a picture-perfect August evening in the Hamptons. One of the new friends I made is a chef and a veteran of the Hamptons dining scene. She gave me a wry smile when I asked if she was a “food person.” Luckily, I had a gimbap (vegetable rice roll wrapped in seaweed) to cleanse my palette after putting my foot in my mouth.
Starting with the canapes, the quality and concept were instantly evident and, definitely distinctly Korean. I would add, distinctly delicious. I was glad I wasn’t alone in being excited about the event; playing it cool isn’t my strong suit. Another new friend mentioned, “I generally don’t go out for dinner when I’m in the Hamptons, but this is Genesis House and the Michelin Guide; there is nothing ‘usual’ about it.”
The servers highlighted the menu with the verve and precision of a Shakespearean actor. Hearing their passion and expertise was infectious and provided the perfect context for each dish.
Sometimes I think that my overall love of food (overall, I love food) gets in the way of writing about food because I’m much better at praise than I am at critique. That is ideal for me because it’s all praise all around. Every bubble, every bite was everything you hope for in Michelin Dining: Inspired and Inspiring.
The interplay between South Indian and Korean cuisines at the event was a masterful reflection of how food serves as a bridge between cultures. Each dish was thoughtfully crafted to highlight the unique flavors of both culinary traditions while allowing them to harmonize beautifully on the palate. The use of traditional Korean ingredients, like barley jook and black garlic, alongside South Indian spices and techniques, created a fusion that was both surprising and satisfying. Blending flavors and culinary references showcased how food can transcend borders, offering a delicious narrative of cultural exchange and mutual respect.
The guest list was filled with discerning palettes, but still, course after course, every plate was cleaned. Noted guests included… Nancy Chilton, Aliya LeeKong, Noa Santos, Joey Wölffer, Sophie Elgort, Ross Matsubara, Monica Ramirez-Montagut, Edward Barsamian, Victoria Strugis, Carson Gray, Rachel Espersen, Micaela Erlanger, Miriam White, Fernando Garcia, Steven Beltrani, Elizabeth Kurpis, Joe McHugh, Quentin Curry, Nina Runsdorf.
Word to the wise: Don’t badmouth rosé in the Hamptons. You might be sitting next to Joey Wölffer.
Across the table from me, someone found out the hard way that the Hamptons is rosé country. It was like it happened in slo-mo, “I never drink rosé,” he said to the woman next to him, who just so happens to be the Queen of Rosé, Mrs. Summer-in-a-Bottle, Joey Wölffer. Luckily, she is as easy-going as a crisp glass of Wölffer rosé and, after teasing him for a few minutes, forgave him.
To me, evenings like this, making connections and community around imaginative cuisine, are what defines fine dining in the Hamptons.
A Distinctly Korean Experience
The menu was so good I am now considering buying a new Genesis so I can get to and from their restaurant in NYC (40A 10th Avenue, New York, NY 10014).
- YEOLMU MULHOE: Jeon-gaengi | tomato dongchimi | citrus | gosu-kkot
- Paired with Kimpoyea Chungju (Kimpo, Gyeoniggi)
- DOMI-TWIGIM MOILEE: rice flour crusted red snapper | barley jook | mustard | turmeric | coconut milk
- Paired with Chateau De Meursault (Meursault, Charmes 1er Cru, 2020)
- YANGNYEOM GALBI: marinated short rib | asparagus-gim jangajji | baek-gimchi | black garlic
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- Paired with Chateau de la Tour (Clos Vougeot, Grand Cru, 2018)
- CHOCOLATE & MUGWORT: mugwort creme diplomat | flourless chocolate cake | aniese praline caramel
- PASSION FRUIT PUDDING: passion fruit | raspberries |saffron | mint
- Paired with Lee Gang Ju
