Springing into Spring

By François Payard

I love spring because it’s a time of new beginnings, when the cold snap gives way to warmer temperatures. People have tired of cocooning and are ready to socialize. Having lived and worked in many countries, I’ve been fortunate to experience many culinary traditions, and I embrace them all.

Growing up and starting my career in France, my favorite spring entertaining centered around the Easter holidays, when my family all came together and Mom was helming the kitchen. When I worked in New York, I was invited to many Passover dinners and it was wonderful to share in this powerful experience. In fact, my first Passover dinner unfolded at the Four Seasons Restaurant in Manhattan. Mayor David Dinkins was even in attendance. I was asked to read from the Torah for the first time. I was nervous but also incredibly honored.

Spring is also that time of year when restaurants receive many requests for catered office parties (shortly after bonus season) and a fair share of bridal showers (love seems to be in the air). In this spirit of bringing all these special moments together, I offer up a menu of ideas for keeping your festivities joyful, authentic, and delicious.

Easter Brunch

Start with a light soup, such as a potato leek or a sweet pea soup; these two are always best sellers at Le Bilboquet Market. For Easter, my mother always loved roasting a leg of lamb with skin-on baby potatoes, a glass of white wine, and herbs de Provence. It’s still my go-to Easter dish. For dessert, my family loves a napoleon with berries. This year, at Le Bilboquet Market, we’re making a Decadent Cake with a Chocolate Nest.

Passover Dinner

There are many rituals and comfort foods associated with Passover. I love a homemade matzo ball soup. Use a pressure cooker to make real chicken stock in less than an hour. This is a perfect make-ahead soup, and fresh dill really brings out the flavors. For the main course, I like a brisket or lamb shank braised in the oven. A side of simple roasted vegetables, like artichokes, fennel, and carrots, are the perfect accompaniment. Season them with a little sea salt and good olive oil. For dessert, try any one of the Payard flourless cakes from my books or my famed twice-baked matzo covered with chocolate, sliced almonds, and fleur de sel.

Happy Hour

Come up with a special celebratory cocktail menu. No one wants to network with a fork and knife. Invest in elegant cocktail napkins, sleek florals, and let the champagne flow. Keep the food easy, such as one-bite canapés and protein-rich skewers of marinated chicken, beef, and vegetables. Take the charcuterie plate to the next level with global cheeses on toothpicks, meats, and different grape varietals. Put together a lively playlist, and don’t forget to make time for speeches.

Bridal Shower

Compose a menu of tea sandwiches or tartines, perhaps even mini quiches. Toss a seasonal citrus salad or a quinoa, tomato, and olive salad; both pair well with a light citrusy vinaigrette. Go for a floral sangria and a nonalcoholic rosé. Or get creative with the mocktails, like a mint elderflower punch. Honor the bride and her story, perhaps ending with a dessert that’s a childhood favorite of her’s. Have tissues at the ready!